The thoughts and experiences of living in Northern Sweden while writing a film script, running a restaurant and eking out a living from a drying pen.
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Saturday, 19 February 2011
Back from Berlin to -29c
Friday, 11 February 2011
Post Jokkmok...Pre Berlin
Last week at Jokkmok market, my first visit, I can't understand what took me so long, it was the most exhilerating experience and I met a lot of new friends and contacts. This year the theme was food, so it suited me down to the ground. And what food.. smoked and grilled reindeer meat, smoked mountain lake trout, elk sausages and giant muraks of braised elk. The fur clad market stall holders shouting their wares a if they were in a medieval carnival, reindeeer pulling sledges. Everyone breathing like dragons and smiling at the same time. The whole atmosphere bubbled with bon homie, I almost forgot about the political questions of wolf establishment in reindeer areas and the Swedish governments refusal to sign the UN treaty on indigineous peoples.This weekend I'm off to the Berlin film festival, I wonder if there will be smiling dragon breathers there?
Maybe the connection between food, art and commerce that I found in Jokkmok could be transposed to film festivals and they could burn the red carpet to keep warm.
Thursday, 18 November 2010
The big push
I have made a pact with myself. To place a stone on Nelson's, grave every day. She deserves it and I need to keep her memory alive. So far I'm keeping the promise.
This week has been so full of words, like jig saw pieces in a puzzle you bought at a second hand store and I've lost the picture. I'm sure it was a puzzle of sky and sea, two shades of blue that merged on a feint horizon. I'll get there.
Winter has taken a grip. The sea has frozen over and I watched daily as the ice bit fast. Soon it will be thick enough to sail a ice yacht, or go skating. If no more posts are posted, then come looking for me.
Tuesday, 9 November 2010
Some entries in a diary are the hard to write. Some entries are milestones. There is always something to write or think about. Yesterday was a black day.
There is no entry for yesterday, because I couldn’t write, I was paralysed.
NELSON, my best friend and companion is no longer here. I put her to sleep yesterday morning. I played God? And it did not feel good.
So, this morning starts a new routine, a quieter routine, no more the padding of paws or the clumping up the stairs. She will not follow me out to get the paper in the early morning darkness, although it was some years since she actually followed me up to the letter box. The house has a strange quietness.
Yesterday I did all the walks. The forest track one, to Thomas’s sign. I met a young Golden out on his morning walk, I cried. I felt Nelson with me, even though at that time she was in the back of the car, dead. I did the beach/forest walk, where on so many occasions we have met Kari on his walks, this morning we met no one. I stood and looked back waiting for Nelson to catch up, she never did of course. Then later in the evening, after the candle had burnt out on her grave, I went for our late night route. I waited by her grave, asked if she wanted to follow and whistled for her. I’m sure she came, tail swinging and nose to the ground as always. So ended one of the most painful days in my life. More so even than when Svensson went, because Svensson was really old and sick and on reflection I’d waited too long and she was suffering. No, with Nelson it was different. A week ago she was full of life and vigour, now she’s gone. A visit to the vet to make her better, ended with me carrying her home dead. It feels heavy and fathomless. I’m lost and I was the one who made that decision, which I knew had to be made, but it hurt so deeply inside that I wonder if I will or can recouver. I shall always remember that good trusted friend. She was a proud dog.
Thursday, 4 November 2010
Culinary Suicide
After a day battling with empty hooks and a choppy sea. We eat in the local quayside restaurant. They had some sort of film show and talk earlier, the audience mainly glad old pensioners, their wheeled walking sticks parked outside like a motor cycle gang. Two old ladies hung on the porch and smoked, coughing and gossiping. The talk was about the history of a Norwegian ship, that had been sunk by the Germans and then rebuilt after salvaging. The food deal was a set dinner of fish cakes, potatoes, mashed turnip and a butter sauce, oh, I forgot the carrot salad and remoulade sauce. All followed by rice pudding and a chocolate sponge stuffed with pineapple. The whole creation, from start to finish, was truly disgusting. Like shoveling liquid concrete down your throat. The question must be raised, how can a nation with the longest, most productive coast in the world with fresh ingredients right on their doorstep, make such a culinary pigs ear. It is truly baffling, in fact it's a crime. A perfect idea for a documentary. A culinary suicide.
Tuesday, 2 November 2010

Bessaker. Norway. Tuesday and it's blowing a storm and raining. I'm here fishing or at least that's the idea. So far ten small sei, which will go into a soup tonight. I've decided to try and keep this blog updated, so anyone who reads it, please make a comment.
Saturday managed to finish the latest draft of the screen play Tostissimo and send it off to my loyal band of readers. With that done, a weeks fishing in Norway feels like a reward.
Last night on a walk after dinner, came face to face with a otter. (I actually thought it was a large rat? maybe it was, but a local also out for a walk said it was a otter, so who am I to disagree). I did lock my door though later.
